Day in the Life

Four thousand holes in Blackburn Lancashire...

Sunday, July 03, 2005

La Vie en Rose

And then there were the 4 days 3 nights in Paris ~ now I know some of your have been and seen and had rave reviews but I really really didn't expect to be absolutely blown away by it. Perhaps the perception of the French as all snooty or the streets to be sewers got me to think that it would be like an upscale Sudbury for some reason, but I am here to report that indeed, Paris is much nicer than an upscale Sudbury. Much much nicer. In fact, I could name it as one of my favourites in the world (and yes I have been to Windsor).

The two of us were just so impressed, for reasons that go on and on to the point that I'll just get to the chase and list them point form, in no particular order:

  • the architecture & streets: very posh and well maintained, streets were narrow (not sewer-like) with motorcycles and mopeds being the way to really get around
  • the walkabout potential: not the aussie type, just the fact that walking down the streets to all the different sites was interesting in itself, always some statue/sculpture to ponder over, always something cool to see (as opposed to Amsterdam where everything melts into each other and repeated over and over)
  • the baguettes: DAMN they were good, so fresh and warm, so cheap and a meal in themselves, literally to the point where even adding peanut butter to them would make them less delicious (and I never ever ever insult peanut butter unless it's entirely absolutely necessary)
  • no fat or ugly or sloppily dressed people in Paris: we actually consciously made an effort to spot out one person who was obviously local that wasn't dressed up. We saw one in 4 days. I shit you not.
  • ease of being a tourist: maps were everywhere. We always felt safe walking around at night. So much was within walking distance of each other. The sheer amount of cool things to see and do. The fact that it was obviously such a tourist haven but still maintained it's class, never seeming tacky or exploitive (except Notre Dame)
  • The Metro: a continuation of above really but deserves a mention all on it's own. There are 276 stops in Paris with 13 lines running which, compared to Toronto (2 lines), is astonishing considering the populations of each (look up the numbers yourselves). It told you how long it would be until the next train arrived while you were waiting. Also, the trains themselves were just one long cab so you could look down from one end and see the other end, with all the twists and curves making it feel like time travel. (Ok, maybe that's a grossly absurd overexagerration but it was really cool nonetheless.) (*Also, amusing side anecdote, we were heading home late one night on the Metro and ran into these 3 guys, 2 of whom were seemingly perfectly sober while the third was somehow completely wasted like nothing else. The story obviously ends in puking and so after awhile, every time the train stopped at a station, these two buddies would lean their boy out the doors for a second so he could puke, then pull him back in as the doors closed. He was up to 3 consecutive puke stops before we got to our station! Cheers to the French and their ability to look after their buds!*)
  • the Parks: again, so well groomed and tidy and extensive, which really says a lot in a city where land must be incredibly expensive. Everyone would just grab some wine and baguettes and cheese and congregate in mass crowds and parties, especially under the Eiffel Tower and the Jardin du Luxembourg
  • Palais du Louvre: we never actually went inside due to time restrictions (you'd have to spend a whole day inside to give it justice and it was just too nice outside) but the buildings alone were unbelievable, not to mention the glass pyramids.
  • Sacre-Coeur: a basilica on a hilltop overlooking the whole city and definitely worth the hike up those stairs, the church itself very beautiful and although perhaps not as detailed as Notre-Dame, Sacre Coeur felt much holier and not so touristy
  • Picasso Museum: can't stress how cool this place was, we were just amazed at first of all how prolific the artist was and all the various mediums he used throughout his lifespan. Secondly, the museum was almost like a maze in itself, steering away from the usual just "paintings-in-a-room" motiff and presented them in different and interesting ways. And it was much cheaper than the Van Gogh museum but by far more bang for your buck, I'd recommend it as a must-see for anyone who has half an inkling of interest for art.

Right, I could go on and on for quite some time about how much we both enjoyed Paris but for the sake of my readers I'll try to wrap up soon. Two great moments more I'll share though, both of them involving Parisien's preoccupation with chilling in parks. It's the thing to do there, on the scale that we would grab some friends and head to the bars, they would grab some food and drink and meet their buds out on the grass and soak up the sun (or stars.) Our last day there we spent part of the day in Jardin du Luxembourg, truly beautiful, just hanging out on the grass along with everyone else. After some time, this little 2-3 year old caught our attention as he sat all by himself, staring transfixed at nothing in particular for minutes at a time. Somehow he noticed us and came over to talk and play and share for a while the little planet he was from. He was such a funny little guy, totally engrossed in his own world and on his own mission, not to be persuaded to do anything except what was running through his sparkling imagination. Jolan has such a great connection with kids (and they love him for it) and so watching him and this little boy interact was truly something special. Oh Ethan! You were le petit prince just as I always imagined!

Of course the other big night in the park was under the Eiffel Tower. I always knew it was cool but come on, that thing is really the real deal. We showed up in the afternoon greeted by the usual hord of mostly Parisiens lounging on the grass (don't these people have jobs?!?!). I think that was one of the great things about the Eiffel Tower, you could just chill and have some fun with one of the most famous structures in the world as your backdrop. Not too shabby. Not that I want to drag Toronto into such a memorable moment right now, but comparing the CN Tower to the Eiffel, there's no contest. Maybe it's because the CN is just in the middle of a dirty city and if you want to gaze at it in awe, you'd just get run over by a trolley. On the other hand, the Eiffel is in the middle of a park more or less and you can make a relatively inexpensive day there just picnicing and enjoying the view. And playing ping pong obviously. The park also had soccer fields and basketball courts but Jolan and I opted for the PP option, bought some paddles and went at 'er. (Me without question beating him handsdown. Yeah.....) As the day wore on, we ran out and grabbed some goodies (wine, chinese takeout, baguettes, etc), grabbed a seat on the grass and had a feast as we watched the sunset. The Tower lights up and sparkles and the sun sets and the stars come out and you're there watching it all beside such an amazing guy and........incroyable. It was a truly unforgetable night (how could it not?) and exactly as it was meant to be.

So yes, Paris was brilliant. Really liked it. The hell with all those who don't. And another thing ~ everyone was so great to us. Never again will I be able to idly stand by and hear the French be stereotyped as rude and arrogant, I'm now obliged under court order to pitch in and say they were nothing but first class. Except that lady at the Picasso Museum. But everyone else was great.

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